Written on Wednesday, November 11, 2026
On Sunday October 25, we said goodbye to Playa del Carmen, Mexico and began our travel to Peru, specifically Cusco.
Last Moments In Mexico
Since we were leaving our VRBO stay early (we booked it through November 6), we could leave whenever we wanted, not being constrained by checkout time. This was good since our flight from Cancun left at 6:40 PM. We had one last coffee and breakfast at our favorite morning spot and then headed to the ADO bus station.
If you ever fly into Cancun but are going to Playa del Carmen, I highly recommend it. The seats are comfy, it is air conditioned, it is clean, it drops you right off at the airport, and it only costs $12.00 (depending on the exchange rate of course).
Our trip to Cusco was two flights on Latam Airlines: Cancun to Lima, Peru and then on to Cusco, Peru.
Since the first flight to Lima was over 5 hours long, we splurged for the premium economy. This was our first time on Latam Airlines, a common airline in South America. Premium economy was just regular economy seats with an intentional empty seat between passengers, but it did include checked bags, an actual heated meal, drinks including alcohol, and a snack before landing. The food was shockingly good.
Layover in Lima, Peru
We got into Lima at 11:55 PM. We had to pick up our checked luggage and go through customs/border control before re-checking in for our domestic flight to Cusco and going back through security. The line at border control was not too bad. AI told us to expect about an hour and a half wait just at border control with the whole process to get back through security to the departure gate taking two to two and a half hours. The whole process took about an hour and a half total. Not too bad actually. We weren't in a hurry since our flight to Cusco left at 5:10 AM.
That Lima airport is the oddest airport we've ever been in. That airport is open 24-hours with many stores and all the restaurants open all night long. This is our second layover in Lima and both layovers were in the middle of the night. It is so common, tons of people were there and that is why everything is open all night.
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| The Lima airport at 2:08 AM. My favorite part of this photo is the huge frog! |
We spent some time in the Priority Pass lounge after getting Peruvian currency at an ATM and before heading to the gate. While the trip was long and included an overnight in an airport, it was a really smooth travel day.
First Moments in Cusco and Altitude Adjustment
The airport in Cusco is really small with only 12 gates. Our bags came out quickly and we grabbed a taxi to our AirBnb.
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| The street our AirBnB is on. |
We were so relieved to find our new accommodations to be much more comfortable and lovely than the place in Playa del Carmen. That stay turned us off to VRBO.
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| Our Cusco AirBnB living room and kitchen. |
The first thing we did was take a long nap. We had done some research regarding acclimating to the high altitude in Cusco and it was recommended we do next to nothing the first day or two with only walking to a nearby restaurant and that's it. We quickly learned that altitude sickness is very real and no joke. We both had horrible headaches, loss of appetite, nausea, and we were easily out of breath just sitting still. The only thing we did that first day was walk (uphill) to a neighborhood market for water (since you can't drink the tap water) and ate at a little restaurant on the way home. The second day, all we did was walk to the grocery store for supplies. Each day we did a little bit more than the day before but to this day - two and a half weeks after arrival - we still get winded very easily and have to take occasional deep breaths while at rest just to get more oxygen.
How high is the altitude here? Denver, the Mile High City, is 5,280 feet above sea level and Cusco is 11,200 feet above sea level.
I fully expected to have problems given my asthma and the extra weight I should not be carrying but I honestly did not expect Blaise to have any problems. I think his headaches were worse than mine.
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| Us in the first few days in Cusco. |
What is Cusco Like?
Population and Terrain
We are really enjoying Cusco! Cusco houses roughly 550,000 people but it seems smaller than that to me. It feels and looks more European than I anticipated. It is in the Andes so you are rarely walking on flat streets. You are either walking up, way up, down, or way down. It is taking some getting used to. Because of the altitude, we make lots of stops even for what would normally be a 20-minute walk. The great thing here is all you have to do is walk a few blocks before hitting a plaza or park where you can sit and rest a bit. And the locals do just that. Sometimes it is hard to find a place to sit. The walking pace here is slower than any other place we have been. I am sure it has to do with the altitude and getting tired easily because of the oxygen level.
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| A typical Cusco Street |
Short People
What really surprised me is the height of the people here. The locals here are short. Really short to me. I'm sure they look at me as a freak of nature. But they are lovely people who do NOT speak English for the most part. According to our Machu Picchu tour guide last week, only about 1% of Peruvians speak English, and these are supposedly only the wealthy people. It is a good thing Blaise is learning Spanish! I would be using Google Translate much more if he didn't speak passable Spanish.
Catholics and Papal Visit
About 80% of the population here is Roman Catholic. That is probably why the Pope is going to be here on Sunday! Blaise and I considered going to see him but they are expecting about 100,000 people at one location he is stopping at and 50,000 at the other. Add to that - there is now rain in the forecast - and it has become a very unappealing situation for me. I will have to be content in being in the same city as the Pope and hope he blesses all of us in the city. I could use a Papal blessing. Couldn't we all?
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| Plaza de Armas, one of the places the Pope is visiting. |
The people here are also still rooted in their Traditional Andean spiritual beliefs so a mix of Catholic and Inca traditions predominate here.
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| They even have their own Christ the Redeemer. |
It’s A Festive Town!
They do like their festivals and celebrations. The first weekend we were here was not only Halloween but All Saints' Day (Dia de Todos los Santos) and All Souls' Day (Dia de Los Muertos). The plazas had stalls with all kinds of vendors - food, clothes, jewelry. By Monday, all the stalls were gone but were replaced with new stalls last weekend. Apparently this past weekend was when all the schools in the area had their homecomings/reunions.
This past Sunday, we stumbled upon a procession with music. It was kind of like the Olympic procession that starts the Olympics, where the graduates of each school year for each school are dressed exactly the same and walk behind a flag indicating their school and year of graduation. It went on for quite a while. I wish I had thought to take some pictures. After they completed their procession, they would congregate with other years of the same school and chant and/or sing in various places around the parade area, usually in front of a church.
Also on Sunday, was the Cusco Bar Association's Anniversary Parade. My people. We missed this because it was at 9:00 AM and we were still in our AirBnB. It was their 133rd anniversary.
I am sure they will have plenty of stalls and celebrations this coming weekend in all the plazas and parks since the Pope is coming! I'll keep you posted.
We have also seen two other processions or parades since we have been here. They seem to be rooted in some sort of religious celebration.
Stray Dogs
There are lots of stray dogs in Cusco. Not the most we have seen in a location but significant enough that you have to make sure you look down so you don’t step in dog poop.
The Sky
The sky here is unlike any place we have been. It is so brilliant. The blue is so blue and the clouds are so white. I am not quite sure how to explain it but it is beautiful, especially against the mountainous background.
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| Look how beautiful the sky is! |
The Food
We are enjoying the food here. It is not as spicy as Mexican food but it is quite flavorful. Lots of empanadas.
The first day we were here, we ate at a little local place. The lady there spoke zero English. There wasn't a menu. The lady said something in Spanish Blaise thought he understood but obviously didn't because the next thing you know, some soup we didn’t think we ordered arrived at the table. Although I have no idea what it was called, it was a delicious brothy soup with chicken, veggies, and different kinds of pasta. After that, she gave us a choice between two different items. Blaise was full from the soup. I was almost full but ordered something anyway. It was meat, rice and some sort of thick green sauce. It was tasty but I became full rather quickly so I took the rest back to the apartment.
Something we have never experienced anywhere else in the world - they charge you a small fee for take-home materials. Whether it is a to-go box or pizza box, they charge you for it.
We found a great pizza place near our apartment. We have eaten there twice already. When you order a pizza, they bring out some complimentary cheese-stuffed bread that looks a bit like a calzone. Our medium pizza and bottled water only cost $10.00. It doesn't matter where we go, I can always eat pizza.
Guinea Pigs
They raise guinea pigs for eating here. Since we had a guinea pig when the kids were growing up and she was so sweet, we simply can’t get to the point where we can eat one.
What is even weirder is the restaurants that serve guinea pig (called “cuy”), they have some sort of art outside the door with an adorable guinea pig - either some sort of painting, picture, or colorful statue/paper mache. Why would a depiction of a cute little guinea pig entice someone to go in and have some?
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| Aren't they adorable? |
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| They are not as adorable as they once were. |
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| They are cute again when it is time to eat them. |
Money
The currency here is the sole. Currently the exchange rate is 3.45 soles (pronounced “so less”) to one dollar.
Everything here is reasonably priced. For example, we went to the grocery store earlier today and bought one roll of paper towel, one four-pack of toilet paper, a bar of bath soap, and two sleeves of oreo-type cookies for 15.60 soles or $4.53. We have a wonderful coffee shop across the street from our apartment and get a hot Americano and iced latte for 16.50 soles or $4.79.
I think about how much everything costs at home these days and wonder if people at home knew how reasonably priced things are in different parts of the world would they consider moving elsewhere for retirement or just to live and work, if they are younger?
Children and Schools
We see children all the time here going to and from school. They all wear uniforms. This seems the norm nearly everywhere we have been, even in public schools. The uniforms here range from track suits to dress pants with white shirts and ties for boys and plaid pleated skirts with white shirts and v-neck sweaters for girls. Unless it is a private school, children only attend half a day five days a week. Some kids attend in the mornings while others attend in the afternoons. This morning we sat on a park bench next to some pre-teen girls in our favorite plaza who clearly met there to practice for some presentation they had in the afternoon.
Tours While Here
Our only purpose for being in Cusco is to go to Machu Picchu, which we did last week. Truly a lifetime-dream-come-true for both of us. I will write a blog solely dedicated to that tour. Anything after Machu Picchu is gravy.
Next week we will take a tour of the Inca sites in and around Cusco and the following week, before we leave, we are doing an ATV tour of the Maras Salt Mines and Moray (an Inca archeological site). Both are in the Sacred Valley which we experienced the day before Machu Picchu when we visited other Inca archeological sites and rode the train through the valley to get to the town closest to Machu Picchu.
Up Next
On November 25, the day before Thanksgiving, we leave for a month in Lima. I have already booked us a Thanksgiving dinner in Lima. This year I am struggling a bit with not spending the holidays with family. Last year we were in Chiang Mai, Thailand for Thanksgiving and I failed to anticipate that I would need to make an advanced reservation for Thanksgiving dinner so we didn't have one. I was not going to make the same mistake this year. We might not be with family this year but at least we can have a Thanksgiving dinner.
The next blog will cover our 2-day tour to the Sacred Valley and Machu Picchu











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